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Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh is the capital city and largest city in Cambodia. It sits at the junction of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers. It was a hub for both the Khmer Empire and French colonialists. It's a city that has a fascinating history which is unfortunately includes the recent genocide in which about a third of the countries population was murdered. As such there are different museums that recount and show how things were during this terrible time in the countries history. Aside from it's dark past the city has lots to offer for tourists including great museums with traditional artwork, colourful pagodas and temples as well as great walking areas such as the riverside. The city also has some great nightlife options. Though it's not necessarily on the main tourist trail it's certainly a city worth visiting and is one that I've visited many times. As of 2023 the city is developing very quickly and I find the overall charm of the city to have increased from when I first visited back in 2017. A friendly visa policy has turned it into a popular expat hub with tons of foreign owned businesses and an increasingly cosmopolitan feel mixed with the unique Khmer culture.
The National Museum in Phnom Penh was one of the more memorable museums I've been to. It's full of a large range of artwork ranging from sculptures to paintings. Its collection includes over 14,000 items, from prehistoric times to periods before, during and after the Khmer Empire, which at its height stretched from Thailand, across present-day Cambodia, to southern Vietnam. The building itself is beautiful with it's traditional architecture and features a large courtyard in the middle. This is a great stop if you're in Phnom Penh and is centrally located near many other activities and tourist infrastructure.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is a former secondary school turned prison that was using during the genocide by the Khmer Rouge from 1975-1979. It was said around 20,000 people were imprisoned here of which many were brutally murdered by the regime. It was one of about 150-196 of such torture and execution centers but has become the main one for tourists to visit. As you can imagine the atmosphere is somber as you walk around listening to the audio player they give you. You follow the audio guide as it explains the history and significance of different parts of the prison. You'll see rooms used for torture, some of the weapons used, cells where they imprisoned people and many pictures of victims of this genocide. The barbwire fences and stains are sure to leave you feeling uncomfortable but it's important to understand the reality of what happened. Many people think it couldn't happen to their country and that was the sentiment in Cambodia too. Nobody ever expected this to happen, but it did. This is a tourist experience like no other.
Choeunk Ek Genocidal Center is the former site of the killing fields used by the Khmer Rouge. It's said that up to 1 million people were killed here between 1975-1979 by the regime. Along with Tuol Sleng Museum this center shows people the brutal reality that this country recently faced. The center itself has less to offer visually although the massive stupa full of skulls is bone chilling. When you enter they give you an audio guide which takes you along from station to station explaining the significance of the area or structures. There were mass graves found here and particularly brutal explanations of ways the regime murdered people. It's a place that will leave you feeling upset and distressed but is important for people to see. It's a bit more difficult to get to this one as it's about 17 km from the city center although there are plenty of transport options in the city ranging from transport apps, motorbike rentals and private buses or taxis.
Wat Ounalom is a nice place to visit right in the main part of the city across from the Mekong River. The sparkling pagoda is full of buddha statues and sits in a buddhist compound. As the seat of Cambodia's Mohanikay Order, it is the most important wat of Phnom Penh, and the center of Cambodian Buddhism. It was established in 1443 and consists of 44 structures. It was damaged during the Khmer Rouge period but has since been restored. It's free for tourists to enter.
The city sits right alongside the Mekong River which offers a nice large walkway. You can stroll along and see the flags of the countries and the pop up markets in the area bustling with life. There are many activities going on alongside the river and just across the street on the road running adjacent to the river are many restaurants, bars, cafes and tourist centers. You'll also find the National Museum, Wat Ounalom and the Royal Palace just across the road from the riverside.
Phnom Penh has many good restaurants and wide variety of food. It seems that there are a lot of restaurants selling foods popular in western countries like pizza, burgers, tacos, kebabs etc. There is of course a lot of delicious local food to try as well. Markets such as the Night Market next to the river and the Russian Market a bit further South offer cheap street food. Some of my favourite Cambodian dishes are fish amok and bo luc lac. Fish amok is a dish made with fish, coconut rice and a variety of vegetables and spices. Bo luc lac is made with beef, peppers and onions and is usually served with rice or french fries. Both are worthwhile dishes to try in Cambodia. Some restaurants that I recommend in Phnom Penh are: Golden Pumpkin, Amnasia, The Big Easy, Bay Area Tacos, Bouchon Wine Bar, Taste of Middle East, Curry Pot- Indian/ Nepalese Cuisine and Flavors of India. All of these excluding the Big Easy are in the area of the Russian Market which is where I happened to stay on my most recent trip. There are some great dining options in Phnom Penh and it's usually very affordable. Pictured below from left to right are fish amok, bo luc lac and a greek chicken feta bowl.
I've stayed in a few different hostels throughout my three trips to Phnom Penh. These were Onederz, Mad Monkey and the Happy House Zone. The Happy House Zone has since closed but the other 2 are open. The good news is I can recommend both of these hostels. If you're looking for a fun, party experience that includes a pool and pub crawls Mad Monkey is the best option. They feature parties and events both at daytime and night at their pool and bar. Onederz was a bit quieter when I visited but was still great. Overall I'd say the rooms at Onederz felt a bit nicer than Mad Monkey but it didn't quite have the same party atmosphere. The location of Onederz was great as it was right next to the river on Preah Sisowath Quay so walking around the main tourist area was easy. Mad Monkey was located between the central market and Basaac Lane which is also a prime location to experience some of the best places in the city.
As I've become older I don't stay in hostels anymore. On my previous two trips to Phnom Penh I booked airbnbs. You can get very good deals in Phnom Penh. I enjoyed having a 1 bedroom apartment with a full kitchen, living room area, balcony and 1 bathroom for less than 200 usd per week. I really enjoy staying in the area by the Russian Market as it's quiet and there are tons of great little businesses around the neighbourhood. It's great for walking around and exploring by foot. I do also enjoy the city center area just further north and the main riverside stretch. This area is usually a bit more congested but offers some of the best food, sightseeing and nightlife options in the city.
